What is the meaning of the black ribbon?

well.. couldn't contain myself..

started researching young girls head attire in 16th century Germanic..

well..
mostly they have their hair let out and nothing on their heads or braided.. or a flower wreath.. perhaps a simple hat.. or the alluring little black ribbon..

Does it have a purpose? Is it a fashion statement?

Portrait of a young girl (presumably Magdalena Luther) by Lucas Cranach the Elder
Probably before 1537, possibly 1528/29

At the moment I've just started researching and I've made a pinterest board (well ofcourse I did..)

You can find it here: http://www.pinterest.com/aelfwynne/garb-ideas-germanic-15-16th-c-girlsyoung-women/

Know what's up?

Please let me know :)

The mad hatter

Well.. me and my eldest daughter (T1 12yrs) are going to 12th night Coronation in Attemark..

For some time now she's been asking (pestering..) me about making her some landsknecht dresses..

well.. since she's outgrown her purple dress I thought it would be easier to start with redoing it and pimping it instead.. and I also got her some feathers for Christmas (she went SQUEEEEE!)

DONE:

• Opening up the neck and widening the holes for the arms (?? lost my words there.. ärmhålet..)
• Lengthening the dress (well.. have to lengthen it some more now..)
• Removing the lacing (she hated it)
• Remove the black trim on the bodice
• Remove the sleeves that are too small and need Landsknecht-pimpin'

TO DO:

• Pimp the sleeves (white poof poof)
• Add lacing points to sleeve and dress for attachment
• Lengthen it some more..
• Add hooks and eyes to the front
• Add new trim to the bodice
• Slash the back (flower design she's made herself)
• Make hat.. sorted that.. see pic below ;)
• Make underdress
• Make false collar
• Make cap
• Redo my old (too small) partlet to fit her

I've also told her that it's time she started making (at least parts of) her own garb.. ;)

Turns out my small hat fit her and her new feathers PERFECTLY!
Just need to remove some of my bling..

Well.. now I need a new hat instead :P To be honest.. the small one was a "temporary" one I made over 5 years ago and is too small for me anyway.. so I gathered some info on hats I like.. this time my inspiration was:

1. Hans Holbein the Younger Portrait of a Young Man, c. 1520/1530
2. Portrait of a young woman as allegory warning against foolishness and false love. Attr. to the
Master of the portraits of the Princes,1485-1500
3. Standing Woman Circle of Lucas Cranach the Elder  (German, Kronach 1472–1553 Weimar)
4. Rektorat von Werner Schlierback WS 1506. Basel, Universitätsbibliothek vol 1.

First sketches:

From above, underneath (with the silk filled brim) and the layout of the top bit..

My own lists before 12th Night Coronation

TO DO:

• Sleeves
• Find them :P
• Mend the poof poof by the elbows (also make it harder for me to get caught in door handles all the time..)
• Sort out a good attatch-to-bodice solution
• Add poof slash bling to the top of the sleeves (? haven't decided yet) and thus hiding the attatch-to-bodice whoblah
• Kampfrau dress
• Mend the lacing
• Mend the front seam in the skirt
• Make new hat..
• Make new wulst (smaller than the first one..) Got some excellent ideas from Viscountess Whilja thank-you-very-much!

Well you know I love pinterest.. so I created a new board for my 16th C garb project(s)
http://www.pinterest.com/aelfwynne/garb-project-16th-c-germanic/

And here's my 16th C garb colletion too:
http://www.pinterest.com/aelfwynne/garb-ideas-1500s/

Progress!

FINALLY!
cut out all the pieces for Mr J's sleeves - outer fabric and lining, no interlining in the sleeves since he's a very.. 'hot' person.. in all sense of the word according to me ;) and sew them together separately so that I can [vändsy] them together making the top curvy part look so much better with less effort :) well they're now pinned together and ready for me to finish them tomorrow and attatch them to the bodice(? what's it called when it's on a man..? torso?)

Still the pattern fits perfectly together as does all the pieces of fabric -knock on wood- let's hope it stays this way 'til it's finished.

Thinking about what length I should do the skirt and if I should lace or use buttons.. any ideas?

Well.. while I tended to the sleeves T1 finished her pilgrim's bag and blinged it out with twi teal coloured tassles I made for her. She's very proud of her werk, as am I <3

Work test and perhaps a new project..?

Yesterday was a packed day with my work test at Sinne. A great store here in Halmstad with great interior design things and also two seamstresses. Well one of them is leaving and need a replacemet. I got my chance to proove what I can do yesterday and they asked me to make a pillow out of whatever scraps they have.. Do I have to tell you I patted a LOT of fantastic fabrics!! Most of them were mere slices so it took me some time to first figure out what to do and then to find the fabrics.. But it was great with a cutting board at my hight(!), presstable, 2 industrial sewing machines and one overlock (I'm putting an overlock on my wishlist btw.. view it on my Pinterest HERE).

Well I did a charcoal base in heavy canvas type cotton with turquoise frills (but straight) going out from the middle, and a damast type turquoise fabric with gold and silver threads for the center lines and the bow (the bow is made by hand.. they looked at me like I was crazy..).. the middle frills are with hidden seams.. the only problem was that all the details took so much time.. otherwise the frills would have cover the whole sides.. but anyway.. except some small misshaps I'm ok with it and I would REALLY like to get the job! The whole feeling of the store is great, calm and filled with fantastic stuff :) How fun wouldn't it be to work with my hobby but another part of it?!

Anyway.. back to the project I think I've decided on.. I really do LOVE Pinterest (let me know if you need an invite) and a few days ago I came across a paining of Queen Anne of Bavaria and Hungary från 1519 (by Hans Maler) and I really want to make it :)

The fabric I have

Queen Anne of Bavaria and Hungary 

According to Annika I need to find me som flat golden spangles (yes I learnt a NEW word) for all the trimmings.. but look at that HAT(!) with beading like she's supporting the cancer society :)

My ever growing Pinterest collection can be found HERE
and the part with my garb ideas can be found HERE

Happy Pinning!

In preparation

Well.. the earth kept turning and all of a sudden it's the day before new years eve!

So what did I do costume wise in 2011..?

I mended a LOT of clothing, made a new simple tunic for Mr J
Made a red italian 16th c working dress that I used while working at Kapitelhusgården i Wisby AB this summer. Worked GREAT!

Other than that I made a dress for Carolin (and 2 matching bags) and also did a crash course in naalbinding with pics on my facebook. Yes, I can post it here too :) Oh and I also held some workshops in 16th c working dress and helped some lovely ladies out with toille making just as I promised I would :) Now they're HOOKED! >;D

But first Carolin's dress (ignore the hat..) and a pair of linnen hose that I made for Niklas since he sold his at our auction for children this summer at Kungahälla Medieval days <3

Now the BIG question is.. what shall be my next big garb project? I'm thinking of using

my kick ass red silk/satiny red flocked fabric with large medallions.. those who know me recognise it from my burlesque outfit.. I think I have 8 or so meters left.. and I promised something fancy for Mr J in the same material too (he wouldn't let me buy it otherwise..)

A pic to jaust your memory on the right

So.. ideas? is this to be the Cranach? I bought it to become a houppelande.. but I don't know if I want one anymore..