The to-do-list just keeps growing and growing..

Finally got around to doing an inventory of all our garb to make lists (yes I do love my lists) of what needs to be mended, replaced and/or made..

We brought our pavillion home from Visby and need to measure it out again since we need new beds that actually fit.. T2 is too tall for the travel crib anymore :P so the girls need easy beds and we need a smaller one. We have a GREAT one but it's HUGE and weigh a ton!

To do (so I don't loose track):

Me:

• Small linnen shift - sew shut the breast feeding holes..
• Linnen shifts for working dress - mend both and replace the sleeves (I made them back in 2004 and have used them A LOT since then)
• Red velvet sleeves - adjust to the new yellow 15th c work dress a bit tight though..
• Yellow 15th c work dress - weave edges, fix the hemming, fix the sleeves and some other stuff..
• Trossfrau - Mend lacing (replace with hooks and eyes?), some holes, ripped silk, slit the skirt(?)
• Trossfrau sleeves - Mend and add lacing holes
• Smocked shirt - finish smocking and hemming
• Trossfrau hat - make a new since T1 got mine..

Not super important

• Wimple - make a larger one
• Birgitta cap - make a new one
• Red Italian - make sleeves, pimp skirt
• Moybog - adjust..? or sell it? or redo it for T1..
• Whulsthaube - reduce the size
• Red petticote - finally finish! Found the skirt part this weekend! it needs wings too.. made it in 2005..
• English fitted gown - add more hooks in the front
• London hood - press

Jacob:

• Black hose - mend and make wedge
• 14th c hose - make new (make pattern)
• 15-16th c hose - make new? (make pattern)
• Braies (brokor) - make new
• Red doublet - mend  neckline, replace metal buttons with woolen? project for camp..
• make 16th c shirt?
• Black straight pants - mend

Not super important:

• Blue jerkin - remake closure, it also needs it's wings and new buttons..
• Make early tudor garb
• 14th c headgear
• Lacing vest - make one..?

T1: the 13 year old is actually fixing most of her stuff her self! *pruod*

• Birgitta cap - make new
• 16th c shirt - make?
• Linnen skirt - make for trossfrau
• 14/15th c dress - make?
• Purple trossfrau - fix bodice, slit the back?
• Purple trossfrau sleves - needs to be made and also add lacing holes
• Dark red trossfrau - needs a hook at the skirt
• Dark red trossfrau - sleeves needs to be made
• Straw hat - mend and remove black ribbon
• Apron - make new for kitchen duty

Not super important:

• Waffenrock and hose for the war games

T2: found two boxes of T1s old dresses! they only need some alterations :)

• Blue Italian 15th c dress - make new closure
• Partlet - fix the side
• Grey shift - add buttons
• Pink princess - puff needs some TLC on the sleeves and the lacing in the back.. could use some mending if I can find the fabric
• Viking apron dress - let it out somewhat.. 
• Black 16th c sleeveless dress - the girls have decided that the dress will be turned into a Landsknecht.. so it needs pimpin.. and maybe a hat..
• Viking kaftan - move the buttons and let the hem back down

Not super important:

• Red English fitted gown and cap - will have to wait until this fall but needs a lot of work since I never totally finished it.. redo the bodice, pimp the skirt
• Shift - make new?

Sell?

• Green play dress - redo if I can find the fabric or put it away..
• 16th c silk dress - make longer strings or put it away.. (it's not like we have a shortage of dresses)

and then there's the furniture and kitchen things to fix.. and put together

so.. TO WORK!

The peace in Knäred 1613

Last year I was contacted by my aunt's friend who works as a guide.
She had been given a new assignment because of the 400 anniversary of the peace in Knäred 1613.

She needed a complete garb to wear when giving guided tours and for visits in school.

http://www.laholm.se/upptack-laholm/evenemangskalender/400-ars-firande-av-freden-i-knared/
That is actually her in the garb I made in the first photo :)

On the 20th of January 1613 the two year Kalmar war ended at a cross road between Knäred in Halland and Markaryd in Småland. This historical event became known as the peace in Knäred and was celebrated on a large scale in 2013.

So.. I hit the books :)

I mostly used information I found online and Janet Arnold's great books "Patterns of fashion" and I also bought pattern 101 from Reconstructing History.

When Lis came over the first time I had already prepared a toile (fabric pattern) for the petticote and then I took the rest of her measurements for the skirt. The skirt is made out of straight pieces and needed no pattern.

I sewed most of the petticote by hand even though I didn't have to, I wanted to.

I put old lace from late 19th century on the sleeves and covered the seams with satin tape. It also closes

with satin tape. (I have later on added some trouser hooks to keep the petticote together because the satin is slightly slippery)

The skirt was very straight forward. I cut a rectangle long enough to go around her waist and overlap by 10cm. I cut 2 pieces long enough from the waistline to the floor at the width of the fabric, sewed them together and pleated them to the waistband using boxed pleats.
I added velvet trim to the bottom of the skirt.

Well no 17th century lade would go around with a small bum so I had to make a bum roll. The one in the pic is my first try but I've now made a new one that is like a sausage ring that goes all the way round (and is more period). I did forget to photograph it though..

Hester Tradescant (from Patterns of Fashion no 4)
by Thomas de Critz 1645. Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford.

Autumne, etching by Wenceslaus Hollar 1643.
The trustees of the British Museum. (from Patterns of Fashion no 4)

Patterns of Fashion no 4
1. Embroidered linen coif c. 1600-10. Middleton Collection, Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham.
2. Embroidered linen coifc. 1610-20. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
3. Embroidered linen coif c. 1590-1600 (National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh) / 1610-15 (Burrell Collection, Glasgow) / 1610-20 (Burrell Collection, Glasgow).

Time for a collar and some type of headgear.. Back to the books.
I decided to make a standard linen coif but without the embroidery since that wasn't in the budget. Tried to find a patterned linen with a more swirly design but failed there too.. so I got a somewhat patterned linen to make the coif out of.

First I looked at all the photos there are of the 16-17th century type linen coif laid out flat.
Then  took a lot of meassurements on my own head to have some type of referense and then I mae a toile (as I always tend to do)

The second to last pattern (the cheek bibs were still too large.
I added a simple lace and lined the coif with a plain white linen.

The finished coif. Quite pleased! Have to make an embroidered one for myself (with the extra headpiece that goes on underneath).

You can find PLENTY of different instructions by searching on Pinterest *love* http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=elizabethan%20coif

You can find my boards there too http://www.pinterest.com/aelfwynne/

Customer Lis in her (almost) finished garb for 1610. The collar needs a large lace.. (sorry for the crappy pics..). When she's out in the schools the kids love her "duck but" (ankrumpa in Swedish)

It took me a total of ca 55 hours to complete.